Tagal Kampung Poturidong

 One of the highlight on our recent trip to Sabah is visiting a protection site for Mahseer (kelah in Bahasa Malaysia) fish sanctuary. Earlier this year I did watch a documentary regarding this Mahseer fish sanctuary that can be visited and be very friendly with the Mahseer fish on one part region of Malaysia Sabah state. Never did I realised that in my mother own village so close to home we have also Mahseer sanctuary until I went to buy breakfast at Kiulu Tamu and one of my cousins that I met there told me about this special place. Never in my wildest dream I don't have to chase or coax the wild fish to come to us but they came swimming quickly toward us. Only rich people with money can eat Mahseer, I cannot afford to buy this fish. Even at rural market sells at RM20 per-kilogram. Well probably be at least double or triple price for the fish in town. I only get to eat it when my cousins caught some. So delicious simply melt in the mouth.

 In Dusun-Kadazan the 'Tagal' is actually a traditional custom from long time ago where you cannot go fishing a certain area or there is only a certain season you can go fishing. The main reason is that there will be no intensive fishing and giving the chance the fish to mature and give offspring. For example on the board, the red zone is forbidden to fish because there is where the river flows very strong and fast. It is a perfect hotspot for Mahseer fish to lay eggs on the stone. The river next to our house is on the red zone where the kids usually have fun playing with water. My late-grandfather land is actually in between the red zone and yellow zone river. 

 Instead of using the main and only road for vehicles we decided to just walk to the fish sanctuary for the kids to have some adventure and toughen them up a bit. This will also be used as a landmark for the kids to remember the way when they are bigger and like to go on their own. They have to cross this watery spot by walking on the bamboo makeshift bridge. 

Then up you climb the hill be careful if its wet due to the wet season. I don't usually like to use this path when its wet, so slippery when I was a kid. My slippers always got stuck on the muddy soil. There is another way boys but will show you next time walking through the rubber tree farms.When you reached up there, turn left walk until you see a small community hall (church?on the left side) and go down the hill. From up there you can see a kindergarten. But walk not towards the kindergarten but on the left follow the cement pathways straight ahead you will see a hanging bridge.

  If you are unsure there will be a signboard 'Tagal'. Our host was Mr. Juara, very friendly and has been taking care of this visitor spots for a long time. When we came close to the river, the fish wasn't there yet but suddenly swiftly something coming towards us. You can see Abby looking down with an expression what is going on???

  To our surprise and excitement, so many juvenile Mahseer surrounded us asking for food. So tame and trusting. They even suck our feet fingers which feels very ticklish, not painful. It has been raining in the afternoon everyday sometime till night so the water is consider big, usually its shallower and we can go further in the water. Since I can't see the bottom I am a bit hesitant to let the kids to go more deeper. I have been reminded so many time since I am small if I see black cloud further upstream of the river even it is not raining at my side not to play near the river. Because the river can rise and flow so fast which is very dangerous if you are swept away. But if its dry season , don't forget to bring some towels and change clothes and have fun playing in the water. On a sunny day and the rivers are its normal depth, I used to let myself be carried away by the swift river flow. My legs sometime have blue black bruises because I bang my legs on the stones while being taking along by the river flow to a calmer spot. Ouch, but fun. I did several times, just tiring to walk back to the starting point and especially you are going the opposite direction of the swift river flow.

Or you can also pick a spot and sunbath. I used to make my own pool when I was a kid. Make a pool by using the stones as wall. Sometime I would find a red stone, smash them and paint our face. I spend hours playing at the river during end year school holidays. You can also search for prawns underneath the stone close to the riverbed.

 The caretaker would like to get more funds from government to add some more facilities in this fish sanctuary visitor centre. So far, toilet has been built from funds received from the government. The more visitors they received in their log record, it will be easier for them to apply for some funding to make it more comfortable for visitors. This rest house is kept very clean, there are tables and chairs you can have picnic. This place has a wide open space, if you want to organise a Family day for your company this will be a good place. You can also BBQ at this place and the whole family will enjoy this experience while having fun playing with fish and water. It is not faraway from the city Kota Kinabalu which is just less than one hour away. The government relies on the village co-operation for the tourism industry. To me as long as there is tourism and farming goods, hopefully there will be no plan for logging. I have seen areas which is close to logging areas and it was too painful to watch the river eco-system has been destroyed. Once was like the river in our village turn to muddy river, the heart feels very heavy. Sad the children could not play anymore near the river. My kids generation is still lucky and I hope it will always be a spot where children can enjoy the river. So future visitors, please come and visit this Fish Sanctuary you will be helping a lot to ensure this place will be safe.

 It is very easy to go here, just follow the signboard to Kiulu White Water Rafting or Pukak Homestay until you reach Kampung Poturidong which is after the small Kiulu town. You will see a 'Tagal' signboard when you reach Kampung Poturidong and park your care next to the roadside and walk just a few metres away you will see a hanging bridge. This river is very popular for white water rafting (Gred 1) suitable for the whole family.

 The village community representatives has tried to negotiate with tour operators to drop by before they drive further up to the white water rafting starting point. But the tour operators has not been giving much co-operation as their excuse is the time frame. Because after the rafting, they will rush to Klias river cruise for the probiscus monkey sightseeing which is actually not a reasonable excuse.  Klias river cruise starts after 4-5PM in the afternoon the earliest because the probiscus monkey comes out at dusk to search for food. I still think they can make it if they leave at 2PM from the rafting end point. I think the tour operators should add the visit to the Mahseer Fish Santuary visitor centre at Poturidong to their itinerary. Well they will be passing the visitor centre anyway (see photo) so they actually can stop over for awhile. When I told my mama, regarding the discussion result with the tour operators, mama retorted the tour operators is considered very lucky already to use the river without any charge, they only has to invest on the equipment that will be used many time. The river they used is free yet they charge per-head close to RM200 now at least. Why not work together with the villager communities and avoid some friction near the future.

Tamu Tamparuli

 Today Wednesday morning is Tamu  (market) at Tamparuli which I went with my mother and sister to buy groceries. Tamu Tamparuli is very special to us because this is the town or main place where we usually shopped our groceries (supplies) went we stayed at mama village before we rode on the public transport and head for mama village. Of course, mama had many memories here in her young days and she feels very much at home here happily chatting away with her native tongue. Although, she was tired today as she just returned here from Kuala Lumpur (also home) late last night, I think she looks happy and radiant today when we were in Tamu Tamparuli. Yup, I knew it once she went back to Kuala Lumpur after her returned, there will be lots of complaint regarding the housekeeping in Kuala Lumpur non-stop today. At least, Tamu Tamparuli provided some distraction and my ears can have some rest. If you are lucky, early in the morning occasionally you can hear the traditional instrument 'gong' sound welcoming you to Tamu Tamparuli.

 Compared to Tamu Tuaran, almost of the plant produce stall here at Tamu Tamparuli are directly from farmers and not middlemen. So, you really have to come early because some of the produce from the farmers will be bought by middlemen to sell at other market near city. My mother was looking for jicama (Yam bean) and carrots but none of the stall have them anymore because it was apparently hot item of the day all bought by middleman according to the farmers. Although the Kundasang region in Sabah is popular with growing vegetables like Cameron Highland at Peninsular Malaysia, the locals now not preferring to buy Kundasang vegetables anymore due several cases of vomitting or food poisoning suspecting of high usage of pesticide being sprayed at vegetables growing at Kundasang. Therefore, people prefer to buy vegetables from other places came from small farmers as they usually grow organic food. Because local people is not interested in buying Kudasang vegetables, middlemen will come to Tamu like this as early as possible in the morning to buy from small farmers that came from rural areas. 

  Not all Tamu produce is the same, you might not find some produce in another Tamu. To me, different Tamu in Sabah is unique especially Sabah is well-known to live harmoniously with different ethnics. As you can see Tamparuli Tamu is rather simple, mostly all the wares are just line up on a simple mat on the floor. Some farmers travel very far from the rural area using public transportation, so they can't bring that many item with them so just a mat will suffice.

 My aunt/mama younger sister too sometime when she has some excess harvest from her garden, she will also come here and sells her harvest. For example, photo above is actually two farmers, on the right a lady selling bananas and on the right a couple selling pineapples,  gingers, lemon grasses, pumpkins and ect. My mother purchased two heirloom pumpkins for Abby and two pineapples for Abby grandfather. See how fresh the pineapples look. 

 I was pleasantly surprised when I saw a familiar face I have not seen for more than 4 years. My eldest son Ilhan first babysitter Nancy was there in the Tamu Tamparuli and selling some harvest from her garden. She stayed with us when I was working in Johor, helping me look after Ilhan when he was from 3 months old until before we left for Australia. Nancy was about 18 years old when she stayed with us. Now she has one daughter and a rubber tapper. For Ilhan, I took Nancy photo together with my mother carrying Abby.

 Tamparuli is not only famous for its Tamu but Tamparuli hanging bridge is also well-known in Malaysia. It is one of the most famous hanging bridge in Sabah. Please make sure your visit Sabah travel itinerary to Tamparuli bridge is on Wednesday morning so you can also spend a little time at Tamu Tamparuli. 

 Some of the items that we bought this morning at Tamu Tamparuli (this is only 20%).  The brown fruit and black mushroom is something new to me today. The reason I like spending my time in Tamu is that there is always something new to learn each visit. 

 This is Sabah heirloom pepper, in my mother native language it is known as Cili Tapurak (did I spell or hear it correctly?), common at Tamu here. 

Gaya Street Tamu

  I managed to persuade my sister yesterday morning, to visit the Gaya Street Tamu held every Sunday Morning, knocked on her bedroom door and told her little Abby all dress up to go out. Gaya Street Tamu is in the middle of the Kota Kinabalu city, just a few metres away walking distance very close to the sea. We barely made it before all the stalls are ready to pack up.  I just wanted to do a little bit of surveying as my stay here still permits me to have a visit again. The sellers are more willing to give a discounted price depending on their total sales for the day before they close shop, so  I preferred this hour but it will be very rush from one stall to another unless you have a specific items you are looking for. One of Sabah popular souvenirs is seashells or decoration made from seashells.

 If you are an antique item collector, you have to come earlier browsing several stalls. It was also interesting to note that I found one stall selling stamps for stamp hobbyist.

 The main reason, I wanted to visit the Gaya Street Tamu was actually plant hunting. This stall was selling orchids but only this in the basket were not safely pack up yet for the day. Lucky for me, my wallet was save. Another stall had one type of orchid that almost tempted me to empty my wallet but I managed just looking at it and not even asked how much for the plant. The orchids in Sabah is a heaven for Orchid lovers. I don't want to buy my first orchid yet. Because once I started, it is difficult not to start making one own collection. So for now, no orchids.

 One of the stall selling fruit plants. A very good incentive of providing a rubbish bin so people won't simply throw rubbish around. Several stalls selling fruit plants are from nearby nursery. There was one fruit stall that has my wish plant and I asked him if he will be at Tamparuli Tamu on Wednesday, please bring some along as I don't have a free hand carrying Abby and stuffs. Since my mother will also be there, it will be easier to ask what fruit plants I can buy for her as well. I wanted to buy some flower plants for her today but most of the plants that were on sale that day is already in her garden which I am supposedly looking after.

 A stall selling traditional medicines. I don't know what type of plant it is. But I found it interesting because some looks like it came from wood bark or chips. The stall owner were busy with other customers so I did not have the chance to ask.

 Chicks! Wish I can bring back some with me at least 10 chicks. If I had the chance before, I would have love to buy some ducklings for my late-grandmother. It was hard to find a stall selling so many chicks, ducklings before in Tamu as it is always sold out quickly if you don't come early in the morning. So easy to get them now. 

 I can't believe it when I see koi for sale at Gaya Street Tamu for a very good price. Two months ago, one of my mother pond which has some very big tame koi in it died because no one remembered that night to switch on the pond filter suis. So the next day, koi's were floating on the pond breathless. No one dared to report to my mother about the incident until she came back and found out by herself that her koi's are not swimming around in the pond.  The pond still remained empty, according to my mother she had to put in special order for her koi's before. The ones gred as 'AA' on the middle left side really attract my attention. I probably dream of koi tonight. Thinking is there a way for them to be on flight with me.

 You can also shop for pet stuff at Gaya Street Tamu. First time today I observed different kind of kittens and puppies pedigree for sale at Tamu.

 After a long walk, you can pamper your tired feet with reflexology and foot massage service.  Each Tamu in Sabah is unique has different type of atmosphere. Gaya Street Tamu is more like a modern bazaar, a bit here and there that summarise Sabah if you have only a short stay.  Tuaran Tamu is more for the local need and you will experience another feeling of Sabah more closer as you observed the everyday life of the local people. On Wednesday, hopefully we will be going to Tamparuli Tamu.

Tamu Tuaran

 This month I am spending most of my days in Borneo island, specifically on the Land Below the Wind which is Sabah, one of the state in Malaysia. The Malaysia Peninsular is popular with night markets or in the National language 'Pasar Malam'. However, here in Sabah local markets are in the morning time and known as 'Tamu'. Compared to Peninsular Malaysia 20 years ago, transportation is limited and electricity are not widespread into the rural areas. I still vividly remembered my childhood when we spent each December at my mother's village, at night for a few hours my uncle will need to  switch on the generator so we can watch the news on TV and have lights.  Fridge and washing machine  was a luxury item those days because instead of cable electricity, petrols were used to generate electricity. So most household does not have these items in the 80's. Raised near the capital city like I was, electrical items were a normal part of day living those days but I can imagined how hard for people in the rural areas which cable electricity has not reached their areas yet especially in this century. So, market in Sabah are commonly in the morning where public transportation is available and instead of middleman, farmers from rural areas can sell their produces directly at Tamu during morning. If you want best produce, you must come early to purchase the best. I am not a morning person, so I am always reminded the night before to make sure to get ready early if we are going to Tamu the next morning. Today, the three of us, me, Abby and my sister went to Tuaran Tamu to buy some edibles for Abby meals and something for us to munch.

 Sweet corn is in season this month as many stalls are selling them and at a very cheap price for someone who lives in the city like me. You can get at least 8 nice corn cobs for RM2.00 (AUD0.60)!  The rejected ones are much cheaper like the one in front of the lady in green RM1.50 perbag about 8 cobs too. Well the rejected ones are still good, it just the kernels have gaps but still full. I bought the cheaper one and I don't think there are any different in taste. Because we are away from our garden so I have to go out to shop for food. Lucky Abby having steamed corn puree with butter alternate days. However, it can't beat the taste of fresh raw home-grown sweet corn.

 Usually at Tamu, the sellers don't weight the veggies but arranged them like this, so you ask how much for a group of these or the bundles ones. This stall is selling RM1 or RM2 per-bundle. So far, I have only seen one variety of eggplants selling at Tuaran Tamu. I was excited to see many different type of sweet potatoes.

There are more varieties of vegetables selling here at Tuaran Tamu compared to our local market near Kuala Lumpur. Can't beat the freshness, volume and price as well. On the right, can you see choko or chayote? I have not been back here for almost 5 years, I felt more confidant picking up the dialect once again after almost 2 weeks so I don't give-away that I am not a native here and get a reasonable price. My cousins usually tease me that I inherited the native face here because I look exactly like one of my grandmother cousin when she was young, but can't speak my mother native tongue much.

 It is very rare to find wild rice seller at Tamu these days, well it is traditional wild rice grown on hill slope rather than the muddy paddy field. Therefore, won't get to purchase it in any hyper supermarket. You only get them from Tamu and look at the beautiful reddish rice grain. When I was looking at the seller small stall space, she was using a recycle small can food instead of weight to pack her produce. One small pack on the right is RM5 and on the left is RM9. I did not buy any as we still have some in the pantry and my sister was whispering at me to wait for mama next time, though I was seriously tempted. The seller reminded me of my late-grandmother who used to sell traditional rice wine at tamu when she still had strength to carry the bottles in a traditional basket (wakit) on her back. I was wondering whether her sales for today would be enough even to pay for her transport fare because it was almost noon already, so I bought the only bundle of purple sweet potato with purple skin and white flesh she had for Abby puree. 

 For today, I did shopped here as well because the lady was the only one selling cekur and I prefer small stall that don't sell assorted veggies like in the supermarket. The bigger stall with so many things to choose from would definitely be buying from farmers as middleman. I rather buy vegetables directly from farmers. I embarrassed myself today due to my lack of knowledge, I thought the ones I labelled as 'Red Ginger (Halia merah) was old turmeric. But the helpful lady, told me it is Halia merah rhizomes. I bought some, not sure what I am going to do with it, but if it starts to shoot I will just plant it and do some researching later. Looking at the yellow chillies and wild mushroom brings fond memories of my childhood when my cousin and I will gather the wild mushroom growing on rubber tree plants. After collecting the mushroom will quickly went home and excitedly waiting for my mama to fry it with chillies.

 Where is the river? I was shocked that the water plants invaded the area so much until you can't even see any water. You only know there is a river underneath all those greens because there is Tuaran hanging bridge above it. What plant can cause this? The pretty invasive Water Hyacinth plant that I recently posted. So make sure we don't simply throw any water hyacinth plant, chuck them in your compost bin. Like this, I don't think the crocodile can also breath well in this river.